Sunscreen Review
Which sunscreen ingredients protect best?
If the sheer number of sunscreens available isn't confusing enough for consumers, then the large quantities of conflicting information surrounding the topic certainly are. Sunscreens are available in a variety of preparations (sprays, lotions, creams) and potencies (SPFs from 15 to 100), but the SPF number doesn't tell the whole story.
Related SearchesThere are two types of skin-damaging ultraviolet (UV) rays: UVB rays, which cause common surface sunburns, and UVA rays, which trigger deeper connective-tissue damage (including skin cancer and the wrinkles and sunspots associated with premature aging). In addition, there are two kinds of skin-damaging UVA rays – short and long. UVA rays are longer (320 to 400 nanometers) and penetrate the skin at deeper levels, causing long-term damage associated with signs of aging and skin cancer. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, these rays are "present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass." UVB rays, on the other hand, are shorter (290 to 320 nanometers) and are responsible for visible damage to the skin in the form of sunburns. Unlike UVA rays, the intensity of UVB rays varies by season, location and time of day. (In the United States, UVB rays are most intense between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM from April to October.) Experts say a good SPF sunscreen should protect users from both UVA and UVB rays. The best formulas should contain broad-spectrum chemical or physical sunscreens or a combination of the two.
A product's ingredients are directly connected to its level of protection. Physical sunscreens are made with minerals (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) that form a natural, protective layer on the skin that blocks the sun's harmful rays. Chemical sunscreens (avobenzone, Mexoryl SX and Tinosorb) absorb UV rays. It's important to note that some chemical SPF sunscreens, including the commonly used oxybenzone, can protect only against a portion of UVA waves (those in the lower end of the UVA spectrum). Many sunscreens contain oxybenzone, but they don't contain anything to protect against long-wave UVA. By including oxybenzone, companies are allowed to say their product protects against UVA, but unless it also contains avobenzone, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or Mexoryl SX, experts say users are not optimally protected against long-wave UVA rays. Mexoryl SX is a highly publicized ingredient that has been used in Canada and Europe since 1993, and it was approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use in the U.S. in July 2006. However, sunscreen products containing Mexoryl SX (a trademark of L'Oreal) have been slow to enter the U.S. market. Initially only a handful of products with Mexoryl, all made by L'Oreal-owned companies, were available in the U.S., but the number is growing.
Reviewers and some beauty magazines say Mexoryl SX contains an ideal mix of ingredients for the best possible protection, but Paula Begoun, skin care expert and author of "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," is skeptical. She agrees that products using Mexoryl SX offer reliable UVA protection, but she says the formulas available are expensive and don't contain many other beneficial ingredients, such as antioxidants. She also says Mexoryl SX doesn't offer the best possible protection. "Although Mexoryl SX is a good UVA sunscreen," she says, "it does not provide the highest level of UVA protection as claimed on the label." Begoun says natural sun-blocking formulas containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide greater levels of protection. The bottom line: Mexoryl SX is an effective broad-spectrum sunscreen, but it's expensive and other options are also viable.
In our quest to identify the most effective sunscreens, we turned to Beautypedia.com, a subscription-based database created by Begoun. She rates sunscreens on how well they protect the user from UVA and UVB rays, as well as on water resistance, fragrance and feel. We found that her website offers the most thorough, credible information. ConsumerReports.org also provides an excellent review in which SPF sunblock brands are tested for their UVA and UVB protection levels. Several beauty and fashion magazines rate sunscreens as part of their annual beauty awards, though their tests are more informal.
Some of the newest sunscreen products use nanotechnology to make formulas that are more aesthetically pleasing. Nano-sized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles are much smaller than the typical micronized particles contained in most SPF sunscreens. The smaller particle size allows them to go on more smoothly without leaving a noticeable white cast on the skin. Some consumer advocates warn that nano-size particles can penetrate the skin and are potentially hazardous. However, editors of TheGreenGuide.com, a National Geographic website, say that studies show that these particles cannot penetrate the skin deep enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream, and they are generally trapped in the outer layer of the skin and not absorbed at all. Begoun agrees, pointing out that there is no scientific proof that these sunscreens are absorbed into the skin. She says, "Actually, you wouldn't want that to happen regardless of any potential risk because sunscreen actives need to remain in the surface layers of skin in order to protect it from UV damage."
Other controversial issues: In their sunscreen report, The Environmental Working Group (EWG), a consumer watchdog group that lobbies for more regulation by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), studied 500 sunscreens and found only 39 that provided acceptable protection. According to the EWG, many SPF sunscreens don't provide adequate UVA protection and contain chemical ingredients that may be harmful to the skin. However, several experts, including the American Academy of Dermatology, have since come forward to say that the EWG's report contains information that is unsubstantiated. Although people continue to debate on both sides, most experts say sun exposure is more harmful than the other possible side effects of some sunscreens and suggest that until further studies are available, consumers should continue to use broad-spectrum sunscreens of all types. However, because of increasing interest in the topic, we have included a section on natural sunscreens (products that use fewer chemicals) for concerned consumers.
Additionally, some question whether sunscreens trigger vitamin deficiencies. Some experts have suggested that daily sunscreen usage can increase a person's risk of developing a vitamin D deficiency, because the sun is the most readily available source of this nutrient. Dermatologists, however, say sunscreen is necessary to reduce the risk of skin cancer. Ultimately, medical experts say this: Skin cancer is a proven threat -- and the only real way to reduce risk is to limit sun exposure by staying indoors, wearing protective clothing and using broad-spectrum sunscreen. If you're concerned about a deficiency, speak to your doctor. Sunshine aside, Vitamin D is also available in supplements and certain foods. See our report on multivitamins for noteworthy options. Our blog post on the topic also provides further insight into this debate.
Beyond SPF: sunblock labeling
Look at a bottle of sunscreen and you will find words such as SPF, waterproof and UVA protection in flashy type that are supposed to educate you about the product, Here's a short lesson in all things sunscreen to help you decide wisely.
The first is that large number that holds the most real estate on the bottle: the SPF or the sunscreen protection factor. This number is frequently misunderstood. For instance, many people think that an SPF 30 sunscreen offers double the protection of an SPF 15. In actuality, the difference is slight. Experts say SPF 15 blocks 93 percent of rays, while SPF 30 blocks 97 percent. Additionally, SPF ratings higher than 30 don't offer more UV protection, and they let the same 3 percent of UV rays through as SPF 30 sunscreen. However, a higher SPF means you may not have to reapply as often. And to confuse matters even more, SPF only applies to UVB rays. For that reason, it's just as important to look specifically for UVA protection. Ultimately, when it comes to purchasing sunscreen, know that SPF 30 offers adequate protection when extended sun exposure is expected and SPF 15 is suitable for everyday use.
Although the FDA has proposed a new rating system to measure UVA protection in sunscreens, these changes likely won't be seen in mass production until 2012. In the meantime, experts say it's best to check the ingredient list to make sure that your sunscreen contains avobenzone, Mexoryl SX, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide (these last two are more natural sunscreen ingredients), each of which is a key protective ingredient.
Although many sunscreen manufacturers use the terms "waterproof" and "sweat-proof" to describe their products, sunscreens can more accurately be described as water- and sweat-resistant because they need to be reapplied after exercise or contact with water. "Sunblock" also is not a completely accurate term because no product can block all harmful rays.
Finally, you may notice that some sunscreens display logos from the American Cancer Society (ACS). This does not indicate that the ACS has tested or endorses the sunscreen -- the companies pay a royalty fee for the right to display the logo.
Best Sunscreen
Broad-spectrum SPF sunscreen offers the best protection
Finding an effective broad-spectrum (as in protecting against UVA and UVB rays) sunscreen is easy. However, relying on SPF to make your decision about your protection needs isn't a good idea because the SPF sunblock rating doesn't indicate UVA protection. Rather it indicates the amount of protection from sunburn-inducing UVB rays. Although sky-high protection ratings, sometimes as high as 100, are becoming more commonplace, most experts say there is little need for an SPF that high. That's because a higher number does not necessarily equal a higher level of protection. For example, SPF 15 blocks 93 percent of rays, while SPF 30 blocks 97 percent. Higher SPF ratings still allow the same 3 percent of UV rays through to the skin. The only benefit of having higher SPF protection is that most people don't apply enough sunscreen to gain the full SPF benefit. Experts say that adults should apply 1 ounce of sunscreen (the equivalent of a palm-full or 2 tablespoons), for full-body coverage every two hours. Higher SPF ratings usually translate into thicker creams, but SPF sunscreens, for the most part, are becoming more lightweight and less goopy.
Related SearchesUntil the UVA protection rating system goes into effect, experts suggest checking product labels for adequate UVA-screening ingredients -- titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone and Mexoryl SX. According to experts, these are the only ingredients capable of screening long-wave UVA rays. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are more natural mineral sunscreens that sit on top of the skin and form an effective barrier against UV rays. Avobenzone and Mexoryl SX are chemical sunscreens that absorb UV rays.
It's important to note that issues like the texture or smell of a sunblock can be extremely subjective: What might feel nice to one person could potentially not feel very good at all to another person. That means you might have to try a few sunscreens before you find one that's both effective and feels good to you.
Overall, most experts and consumers say the lightweight Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch line of sunscreens is the best overall. These formulas provide broad-spectrum protection and are available in SPF 30, 45, 55, 70, 85 and 100 formulations. The SPF 30 formula
(*Est. $10 for 3 oz.) is reviewed most often, but the SPF 55 also receives some positive ratings in reviews. Users at MakeupAlley.com and Drugstore.com praise the lightweight feel of the SPF 30, 45 and 55 sunscreens and say the formula dries to a nice, matte finish. Editors at InStyle magazine agree, recommending the Neutrogena sunscreen for those who don't like to feel like they are wearing a thick lotion. Testers say Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch absorbs so quickly that "you can't tell it's on." Many users say, however, that the SPF 70 and higher formulations are too thick and heavy. Paula Begoun, beauty expert and author of "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," says SPFs of 70, 85 and especially 100 are a lot for the skin to handle and provide about 24 hours of protection, which is not necessary. Furthermore, she warns that each of these formulas contains methylisothiazolinone, a preservative that is known to cause irritation, even in small amounts. For that reason, we chose the SPF 30 version for our Best Reviewed section.
(*Est. $10 for 3 oz.) is reviewed most often, but the SPF 55 also receives some positive ratings in reviews. Users at MakeupAlley.com and Drugstore.com praise the lightweight feel of the SPF 30, 45 and 55 sunscreens and say the formula dries to a nice, matte finish. Editors at InStyle magazine agree, recommending the Neutrogena sunscreen for those who don't like to feel like they are wearing a thick lotion. Testers say Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch absorbs so quickly that "you can't tell it's on." Many users say, however, that the SPF 70 and higher formulations are too thick and heavy. Paula Begoun, beauty expert and author of "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," says SPFs of 70, 85 and especially 100 are a lot for the skin to handle and provide about 24 hours of protection, which is not necessary. Furthermore, she warns that each of these formulas contains methylisothiazolinone, a preservative that is known to cause irritation, even in small amounts. For that reason, we chose the SPF 30 version for our Best Reviewed section.The SPF 55 and higher formulas do, however, include Helioplex -- an additive that may give greater peace of mind because it stabilizes UVA-screening avobenzone, allowing this product to protect the skin for longer periods. (Some experts say avobenzone, without stabilizing ingredients, degrades in sunlight, but we didn't find much solid research to back up this claim.) The SPF 30 and 45 formulas don't contain Helioplex, but experts say the UVA protection is still adequate. User reviews at MakeupAlley.com show a slight preference for these formulas because they are lightweight and don't leave any residue.
It should be noted that both Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF 30 and SPF 45 sunscreens contain antioxidants (vitamins A,C and E), and the higher SPF formulations do not. Studies show that antioxidants are especially effective at protecting against sun damage when combined with sunscreen.
The drawback to the highly rated Neutrogena sunscreen is its cost of more than $3 per ounce, making it an expensive choice for families who go through gallons of the stuff each summer. One highly rated alternative is No-Ad Sunblock Lotion SPF 45 (*Est. $8 for 16 oz.), which costs approximately 50 cents per ounce. The company has been around since 1960, with a mission to provide high-quality sunscreen at affordable prices. To do this, No-Ad doesn't advertise their products.
(*Est. $8 for 16 oz.), which costs approximately 50 cents per ounce. The company has been around since 1960, with a mission to provide high-quality sunscreen at affordable prices. To do this, No-Ad doesn't advertise their products.We found a couple of reviewers at Drugstore.com who say they have been using No-Ad sunscreen for several years, including a farmer who spends many hours in the sun each day. In one professional test, No-Ad scores as well as other top-rated, higher-priced sunscreens for UVA and UVB protection, as well as water resistance. As with any new skin-care product, it's a good idea to test it on a small patch of skin before using. That's because No-Ad uses chemical sunscreens, as opposed to gentler more natural-sunblock ingredients. It also contains fragrance. Editors at GardenSnob.com, a gardening website, say they have been using the sunscreen for years and praise it for its reasonable price, strong protection and non-greasy feel. Users agree that No-Ad sunscreen is lightweight and absorbs easily. One reviewer at Amazon.com says it "does not feel like you have lotion on you (it feels dry)."
Although it isn't reviewed as often as other sunscreens, No-Ad is an excellent, water-resistant sunscreen that contains avobenzone and oxybenzone for broad-spectrum UVA and UVB coverage. It also contains antioxidants (vitamins A and E) and aloe. Aloe is known to be a soothing water-binding agent that draws water to the skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
On the other end of the price spectrum, we found good reviews for La Roche-Posay Anthelios 40 (*Est. $35 for 1.7 oz.). The big attraction for La Roche-Posay is Mexoryl SX, a UVA protector previously available only in Europe. The patented formula is supposed to be more stable than avobenzone and to last for hours without losing its efficacy. Several professional reviewers recommend the sunscreen simply because it contains Mexoryl SX. However, Begoun says that, for the price, this sunscreen is actually "incredibly mundane." That's because, aside from the Mexoryl SX, it doesn't contain any notable ingredients like antioxidants or good moisturizers. Begoun says there are plenty of other options that provide equally good protection for a fraction of the price. Users at MakeupAlley.com give the sunscreen a mediocre rating because it is thick, hard to rub in and leaves a noticeable white residue on the skin.
(*Est. $35 for 1.7 oz.). The big attraction for La Roche-Posay is Mexoryl SX, a UVA protector previously available only in Europe. The patented formula is supposed to be more stable than avobenzone and to last for hours without losing its efficacy. Several professional reviewers recommend the sunscreen simply because it contains Mexoryl SX. However, Begoun says that, for the price, this sunscreen is actually "incredibly mundane." That's because, aside from the Mexoryl SX, it doesn't contain any notable ingredients like antioxidants or good moisturizers. Begoun says there are plenty of other options that provide equally good protection for a fraction of the price. Users at MakeupAlley.com give the sunscreen a mediocre rating because it is thick, hard to rub in and leaves a noticeable white residue on the skin.Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Lotion SPF 60 PA+++ for Face/Body (*Est. $40 for 3.3 oz.) also gets good reviews from experts and users alike. It relies on zinc oxide for broad spectrum protection but has a silky texture compared to most natural sunscreens. Begoun gives the formula a good rating for providing adequate coverage without feeling overly heavy and thick, but she says that, for the price, the sunscreen is rather bland – it contains few antioxidants, unlike other formulas that cost much less. Editors at Shape and Self magazines say they are impressed with the nongreasy texture, but some users at MakeupAlley.com disagree, saying that the Shiseido sunscreen is a bit uncomfortable, especially on the face because it feels heavy and has a strong scent.
(*Est. $40 for 3.3 oz.) also gets good reviews from experts and users alike. It relies on zinc oxide for broad spectrum protection but has a silky texture compared to most natural sunscreens. Begoun gives the formula a good rating for providing adequate coverage without feeling overly heavy and thick, but she says that, for the price, the sunscreen is rather bland – it contains few antioxidants, unlike other formulas that cost much less. Editors at Shape and Self magazines say they are impressed with the nongreasy texture, but some users at MakeupAlley.com disagree, saying that the Shiseido sunscreen is a bit uncomfortable, especially on the face because it feels heavy and has a strong scent. Sport sunscreens and spray sunblock formulas
Sport-formula sunscreens are more water-repellent to resist sweat during activity. Banana Boat Sport Performance Broad Spectrum SPF 100 (*Est. $12 for 4 oz.) contains avobenzone, octocrylene and oxybenzone for complete UVA and UVB protection. Beauty expert Paula Begoun praises this sunscreen, even though it has a very high SPF rating – something she typically says is unnecessary. This formula is different, according to Begoun, because it contains butyloctyl salicylate, which stabilizes and boosts the active ingredients so that a small percentage provides a high level of protection. The formula is also fragrance-free and contains some antioxidants (vitamins A, C and E), which further help to prevent skin damage. Editors at Shape magazine say that Banana Boat sport sunscreen doesn't drip into the eyes either, even with excessive sweating. The product is too new to have any user reviews as of this report. Still, we chose to include this sport sunblock in our Best Reviewed section because it gets good professional reviews and has high quality ingredients with a proven track record. It's important to note that Banana Boat has a few other Sport Performance sunscreens (SPF 15, 30 and 50) with similar names, but they have a different formula and rely on slightly different ingredients.
(*Est. $12 for 4 oz.) contains avobenzone, octocrylene and oxybenzone for complete UVA and UVB protection. Beauty expert Paula Begoun praises this sunscreen, even though it has a very high SPF rating – something she typically says is unnecessary. This formula is different, according to Begoun, because it contains butyloctyl salicylate, which stabilizes and boosts the active ingredients so that a small percentage provides a high level of protection. The formula is also fragrance-free and contains some antioxidants (vitamins A, C and E), which further help to prevent skin damage. Editors at Shape magazine say that Banana Boat sport sunscreen doesn't drip into the eyes either, even with excessive sweating. The product is too new to have any user reviews as of this report. Still, we chose to include this sport sunblock in our Best Reviewed section because it gets good professional reviews and has high quality ingredients with a proven track record. It's important to note that Banana Boat has a few other Sport Performance sunscreens (SPF 15, 30 and 50) with similar names, but they have a different formula and rely on slightly different ingredients.Spray-on sunscreens can also be a convenient choice because users don't have to rub them in. However, a fair amount of product is lost into the air during application (which can lead to less coverage), and users can't spray these sunscreens on their faces. Still, Coppertone Sport Continuous Spray (*Est. $10 for 6 oz.) does well in professional reviews, where it gets high marks for being water- and sweat-resistant. Editors at InStyle and Real Simple magazines also praise it for being able to spray at any angle, making it easy to protect hard to reach areas. Users say this spray is easy to use and dries quickly. A few, however, say that the Coppertone spray sunscreen feels a bit sticky, "like hairspray" and that it's hard to tell where it has and hasn't been applied. Some mention getting burned in missed spots, which, it should be noted, can happen with any sunscreen.
(*Est. $10 for 6 oz.) does well in professional reviews, where it gets high marks for being water- and sweat-resistant. Editors at InStyle and Real Simple magazines also praise it for being able to spray at any angle, making it easy to protect hard to reach areas. Users say this spray is easy to use and dries quickly. A few, however, say that the Coppertone spray sunscreen feels a bit sticky, "like hairspray" and that it's hard to tell where it has and hasn't been applied. Some mention getting burned in missed spots, which, it should be noted, can happen with any sunscreen.Begoun, on the other hand, gives this sunscreen a poor rating because it contains high levels of denatured alcohol (common in spray-on formulas) that can irritate the skin. We didn't, however, find any user complaints about irritation. Begoun also points to a bigger concern in its lack of any ingredients to protect against long-range UVA rays. The SPF 15 and 30 formulas rely on homosalate, octisalate, octinoxate and oxybenzone for sun protection but don't include any essential UVA protectors (avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or Mexoryl SX). If you like the convenience that Coppertone Sport provides, experts suggest using one of the SPF 50, 70 or 100 formulas, all of which contain avobenzone.
Many spray-on sunscreens contain potentially irritating alcohol. One exception is Kinesys Performance Sunscreen Spray Fragrance Free SPF 30 (*Est. $19 for 4 oz.). Begoun says that it has a silky texture and provides reliable protection. The formula is very water- and sweat-resistant, making it a great option for outdoor athletes. Although manufacturers say this is a good option for those with sensitive skin, experts say that mineral-based more natural-sunscreen ingredients (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) are better suited to sensitive skin than the chemical actives contained in Kinesys. It relies on avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene and octisalate for broad spectrum protection. The formula also contains the antioxidant vitamin E.
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